Sticky in Chennai

This goes out to Esmerelda, from Yitzy...

This song is called Shirabe.  It tries to capture the sound and feeling of wind blowing through a bamboo grove.

Buddhas in bas relief

UNESCO declared the area of Angkor Wat, which is just one of the temples, in the province of Siem Reap, Cambodia, a world heritage site in 1992. One supposes that it must be spectacular to achieve such a designation, but then again it may depend on personal preference as far as tourism is concerned. What may be important to cultural human history may not be interesting for tourism and it may just be one small site, or it may be in a country one is in general not interested in visiting.

For me, visiting Angkor Wat and the other major area temples, was not the primary reason for visiting Cambodia. For me it is the sad recent history made famous by the film “The Killing Fields”, that drew me to Cambodia, plus my longtime desire to see Southeast Asia. Living in India provided the opportunity to “scratch that itch” as Yitzy likes to call it.

I am in the middle of my Angkor Wat, etc. 3-day tour. I write “etc.” because there are so many temples to visit here, in this 300 sq. km of countryside, other than Angkor Wat that are just not as well known. Angkor Wat itself, with its five towers, is the most famous and is figured on the center of the Cambodian flag…I think.

Other famous temples are Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm and Banteay Srei. I have visited the first two at this point. I thought I would suffer temple fatigue quite quickly and wondered what I would do. Happily I am not suffering from temple fatigue ( I started to suffer from Buddha fatigue in Myanmar after a few days. )

These are Hindu temples, that were made into Buddhist temples by placing Buddhas in various spots, and then back into Hindu temples by erasing Buddha carvings and removing statues, until finally Buddhism ascended and became the dominant religion.

What I have learned is that the temples of Angkor are worth a visit on their own. Maybe this is why there are direct international flights from several Asian capitals to Siem Reap. No need to stop in the capital Phnom Penh. The temples are glorious and other worldly, at least for me as I have never seen anything like them. It is another of the thousands of examples of religious devotion taking shape in crazy architectural splendor. The carvings are exquisite. It makes the shlock in the markets all the more apparent when one sees how craftsmen once upon a time could create such beautiful expressions out of stone with rudimentary tools, compared with the factory or otherwise mass-produced “crafts”. Many temples seem to rise out of the jungle with monstrous trees seemingly eating the temple with their roots. One such temple has some Hollywood fame as being the site of a film shoot for “Tomb Raider II”. This is where the tour guide adds Angelina Jolie was here and that it was around the time she adopted a Cambodian baby boy. That was yesterday, today my guide added that Angelina Jolie injects her lips to make them fat. This comment was made when he was describing the features of the Khmer faces as having big eyes and big lips – characteristic of Cambodian faces, but not of others.

In conclusion, these temples are worth visiting. Khmer art is not only unique but beautiful and worth gazing at, especially at a quiet temple, in the middle of the forest, listening to bird calls as butterflies flutter around. Not all the temples have heavy tourist traffic. Those that do are difficult to enjoy at times because of the bottlenecks produced by crowds, even though this is the off-peak tourist season as it is about 42C daily. Tourists are sweating buckets so it is funny and grotesque (i.e. dripping foundation) to see women who insist on wearing full make-up.

The time period of this Khmer Empire ranges from 9th to the 15th centuries, when the Thais conquered Angkor. Interestingly, I have learned that Cambodians and Thais dislike each other deeply. Cambodians get along with Vietnam even though Vietnam ruled Cambodia from 1979 to 1989, after all Vietnam relieved Cambodians of the Khmer Rouge. Cambodia and Laos have no gripes with each other and no border disputes. A few weeks ago I read that a Thai actress had publicly stated that Angkor Wat was Thai. This caused a small riot at the Thai embassy in Cambodia. Thais and Cambodians have disputes about cultural heritage, something along the lines of who owns what.

Siem Reap, the town one stays in to visit the Angkor temples, has a population of about 100,000. About 85,000 are involved in the tourist industry. This according to my tour guide. There are many hotels, rarely full, but the good ones are more busy. In short, this is a tourist-friendly place. Don’t expect to be able to roam around the jungles oneself or at all as the risk of landmines remains. Not a place for the tourist desiring an off-the-beaten-path holiday. That goes for most of Cambodia’s countryside. Millions of landmines remain.

As far as I understand, Khmer is the majority ethnic group in Cambodia and the name of their language. There are also ethnic Chinese and Vietnamese and some other smaller groups.

 

While Esmerelda is off to the wilds of Cambodia, I will blog about a few trips we have yet to document - the most remarkable of which was my solo trip to Thanjavur.  The best part of visiting Thanjavur of course are the massive South Indian temples with stunning chola architecture, sculptures and murals.   Here are a couple of shots of the Brahadeeswarar temple which is truly gargantuan.  You have to see it to understand its scale.  When I was there the sun was high up in the sky; it was hot out.  And, as with all temples in India, I was asked to remove my shoes in order to enter.  Of course, as a world traveling hipster, this is no problem for me.  So I take off my shoes and head into the temple, my heart filled with expectation of a thrilling spiritual experience.  As I walk into the temple, absorbing the vast stone structure in all of its might and grandeur, the bottom of my feet begin to get a little uncomfortable.  And after a few more steps, they begin to outright hurt.  And a few seconds later my soles are outright burning.  The stones had become very hot from being in the sun - to the point that walking in the temple felt like strolling across a hot frying pan.  Try as I did, it was simply unbearable to stroll around the temple.  It was very ironic.  Months of anticipation, only to find myself convulsing in pain and fearful that I would end the day with serious burns on the bottom of my feet.

I developed a strategy of sprinting from shadow to shadow in an effort to see as much of the temple as I could. This approach did let me get around, but overall the visit will be recalled as primarily a physically painful event.  Such a shame.  The temple is gorgeous.  At least I provided some comic relief to some of the pilgrims who could not help but see the humor in the bald white man running, crying and laughing all at the same time in a desperate effort to reach the next patch of shady stone. 

Arrived in Cambodia yesterday morning at Phnom Penh International airport.  It seemed to only have 6 gates and there was no other plane other than the one I arrived on.  I am excited to be here.  Strangely, the song "Holiday in Cambodia" by the Dead Kennedys, a punk rock band when I was growing up, is playing through my head, popping in at random.  If you know the song, it is not a pleasant song to have re-played over and over in one's head or in reality - even though I owned the 45 single - Yes I am old enough to have enjoyed vinyl.

I hope to post about Cambodia soon but right now I am unable to.  The internet connection is not solid and I wonder if uploading photos will be at all possible at the speed of the connection as well. 

What I can say now is that this is a place to visit and visit soon.  There is tourism development in progress for those who like to visit places before they become copies of other tourist destinations.  However, more importantly, visiting the country to learn about the genocide experience is what is unique to this place.  Very few places are open ( I don't know how open as I am no history expert on this subject. ) about their histories and then additionally create museums to publicize them for tourism, and foreign tourism at that.  Visiting these places is moving, shocking and sickening but alas, this is who we are.  We are human animals capable of atrocious acts on massive scale over long stretches of time - that is unless there is some intervention.

The people here are gentle and kind.  Makes one wonder how, why and where the evil side comes from within all of us.

Thai food is known all over the world, at least in my world, as delicious blends of spice, lemongrass and coconut. As vegetarians, options are always limited in most places since most cuisines are dominated by meat. So though the flavors are wonderfully spicy and refreshing with the lemon zing, there are always few dishes to choose from. Desserts happily are an exception as they rarely include meat, again in my experience of the world. If vegan, obviously desserts would be difficult still. We are not vegan.

Here are some desserts we liked. Above, water chestnuts in coconut milk. Served beautifully in our hotel room. Never having eaten this dessert before but eager to try it based on the menu description, I was rewarded for being a glutton. I am continuously trying to regain the weight I cannot maintain in Chennai so I overeat as much as I can when traveling, when my stomach is able to function healthily.

The photo above shows an orchid, the bowl of water chestnuts in the coconut milk and a bowl of crushed ice. The crushed ice is to be mixed with the dessert but instead I (not knowing what to do with it) placed the dessert bowl on top of the crushed ice bowl and ever so slightly chilled the dessert which made it taste even better. At a restaurant where we ate later, I ordered the dessert and learned that one dumps ice cubes in the dessert to cool it but I don’t want to water down the coconut milk flavor.



The coconut smoothie above was the best coconut smoothie ever! Just slightly sweetened, grated fresh, mixed with coconut milk/water and served in its own shell. Perfect. Also a perfect way to start or end the shopping here in River City, across the river from our hotel, where Yitzy spent many hours window shopping, just hoping he could buy a Buddha statue but alas he did not fall in love with anything, not for want of trying.


Amongst the beautiful stores, that were more like galleries, full of antiques and reproductions, was this store, standing out like a sore thumb and an eyesore. As with all things, one has to see ugly to appreciate the beautiful. So the super tacky store serves its purpose as can be seen below.

A solid gold jade statue in the entrance of this "museum". This statue took about 3 years to carve out of one solid piece of jade. We went with some time to kill before the Thai kickboxing event which was in the area. I thought it was going to be a true museum with of course a nice gift shop where I might buy something. However, this "museum" was first and foremost a two-story store, quite big actually, with a little room for a "museum" video that educates one about jade in about 2 minutes and then a simple display of some jade artifacts from the ages. The focus was sales and the staff kept pushing the jade purchase. I must say, I am easily annoyed by pushy sales people but Patty, one of the managers there was so good at her job that it became a pleasant experience. They were all very observant sales people, watching our eyes, seeing where they pause a few seconds, noticing any possibly meaningful twitches in the face expressing desire, etc. Once Patty noticed my reaction to the section selling jade jewelry in the shape of animals she was assured of a sale. Yitzy of course was being pushed the jade Buddha, the jade Goddess of Mercy and the like. I was happy to buy an owl and elephant pendant.
Statue close-up.
The first floor of the "museum".
Being presented with the animal pendant options.
Spending money.

I hadn't freed any birds since Myanmar so I thought I was due. Again, who knows if these birds fly back to their cages for food within minutes or if they are truly freed. Whatever it is, as a tourist, I like to do this as much as I can when available. Maybe like Richard Gere in the Visa ad for India, I can some day buy all the birds freedom. In this photo I am receiving instruction on where I am to free the birds. I am told to do so in a little open area in front of the giant standing Buddha - the reason for the visit.

Got the wallet out. Making payment. Can't remember how many bhat.

Got birds

Soon they will be free.

Waiting to fly free.

Going to free them in front of the giant buddha.
Opening the prison cage door.
Off they go
Gone
I got what I wanted.
The reason for the trip is an afterthought for me. Primary for Yitzy.
At this point of our Buddha travels, Buddha Shmuddha. Just give me some reptiles or fluffy animals as a part of the temple complex to gawk at and I am happy as can be.

Esmerelda wagered100 bhat that the

fighter in the red trunks would die by round 3.

Of course no visit to Bangkok is complete without some Thai Kick Boxing! 

Esmeralda and I are great consumers of Kung Fu movies. (Fyi, this is arguably one of the legs upon which our marriage stands.) Of course Kung Fu movies are a far cry from actual Thai Kick Boxing, but we had to check it out.  We were a little apprehensive as I had heard a lot about the sheer brutality and viciousness of Muay Thai.  Supposedly Thai kick boxers are very aggressive, brutal, and matches often degenerate into horribly bloody spectacles.  I was a bit nervous that it might prove a bit much for Edmerelda’s sensitive side.  But, despite our doubts, we knew this was part of the unique cultural life of Thailand, so we wanted to at least try.   (Note: Prior to this event my primary source of knowledge about Thai Kick Boxing was the much cherished classic movie: KICKBOXER.  I have also completed additional research by viewing its equally lauded sequel:  KICKBOXER II.   Have yet to see KICKBOXER III.)

 

Getting ready for another brutal round of mortal combat.

We paid double the usual rate to get the special foreigners VIP treatment (Basically we got seated in a front row area with all the other white people, and a few Bangkok ‘girlfriends.’)  We could feel the excitement in the air as the crowd began to build.  The bell rang and the first fighters walked into the ring.  My best guess is that the first kick boxers were about 10 years old.   And, as far as I could tell, it looked an awful lot like your average school yard scuffle.   Hey, don’t get me wrong.  It was fun watching two kids duke it out.  But it was far more reminiscent of a mundane confrontation between two 5^th graders than say, a scene from Lethal Fists V with international action hero star Jean Claude Van Damme.   I was actually thinking to myself: "Hey, I can take these kids on!"  They were cut, in awesome shape, but they were still little kids.

I actually think this might be a great sport:  12 year old Thai Kick boxers versus middle aged, bald, paunchy, spectacled, very white Jewish business men.  I am sure there is a great investment opportunity here.  Or at least a fantastic reality TV show. If anyone has the connections needed to make this happen let me know.  I am ready to start training immediately.  

Happily the later matches involved older and more developed fighters, but even the heaviest were still quite young and quite slim.  But it was a fun and interesting evening.  I was surprised that the fighting was aggressive, but actually quite tame and humane.  A few fights were ended early when the match became too one-sided, and overall I felt they had a high concern for the safety and well-being of the fighters.   As far as a fighting event can - it felt quite civilized.  Worth an evening if you are ever in Bangkok.     

Amulets are big in Thailand. There are amulet markets that are high end and those on the street. The amulets that are precious are the ones that are blessed by famous monks. However, one sees many people wearing one or two, or more, of the Buddha, or legendary monks. Like all jewellry, there are gaudy amulets, subtle ones and everything in between. Yitzy was set on buying one either for me or one for himself that he may or not ever wear. You may be able to see in the photo, the statue of Buddha or a monk, often encased in a clear plastic case, often framed by some metal. These look odd for one not used to such chunky plastic pendants. Or the statue can be framed in metal and then hang on a pendant. The Buddha or monk image can be refined or a rough image.

Shop in an amulet alley. I usually find jewellry I like quite easily and so I did.

Shop on the sidewalk.

Update from Yitzy:  Let me just add that I was / am totally fascinated by the amulet trade as it is yet another absolute complete betrayel of the Buddha's teachings.  Just fascinating.  I did buy an amulet for about $2 - and it looks quite nice, but it leaves me feeling a bit sick and sad when I look at it.  Such amazing ignorance and superstition - all in the name of a man who dedicated his life to fighting ignorance and superstition.  History knows no limit of irony.

Idea for obscure, off off off Broadway, overly intellectual egg-head play: At the end of time Jesus and the Buddha meet and discuss how their ideas impacted the world.  Each argues that his own followers are the bigger idiots.  Both are shockingly cynical, dissapointed and depressed.   

If you want more info on Thai Amulets check out: http://www.thai-amulets.com/

Thai people are just as crazy over the top passionate about the Buddha as the rest of SE Asia.  But I think they come in second to the people of Myammar.  Maybe that is because in Myammar all they gots is the Buddha.   Above is a picture of Esmerelda in front of a 3.5 meter solid gold Buddha.  For many years it was thought this Buddha was a plain old plaster image, until one day while being moved it got a big whack, and LO, it was revealed that its plaster covering was merely a ruse to conceal the real value of its contents.   Apparently this was the thing to do back then to protect your best Buddhas from invading armies. 

We are not big fans of Thai Buddhas.  The Thai Buddha seems to have a sort of goofy look on his face.  Whenever I see one I think this is the way Walt Disney would have had him drawn. 

And here is Esmerelda by one really massive reclining Buddha.  This picture does not do justice to the size of this Buddha, nor does it capture the beautiful art work on the walls.